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Building Farm Pond

Building Farm Pond 
This is how we plan a pond construction. One of the critical strategies to fight drought. Indeed, even numerous "popular" pond building ventures miss a lot of focuses in this and consequently can't be as helpful as they can be. Permaculture rocks! This is the means by which I approach making arrangements for a pond. 

You have to consider these: 

1. The amount Rainfall 

2. What kind of soil. (On the off chance that its clayey or anything less porous than sandy loam, runoff is around 1/3 of the rainfall). This gives conceivable pond sizes/volume conceivable per area. 

3. Distinguish catchment. This discloses to you where your dam can be with the goal that it can get the required volume (swales catch water and can redirect them into ponds on the contour).
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At this point, you can roughly identify the contours/places where ponds are POSSIBLE.
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4. Recognize places of water utilization. (putting dams close by can decreases channelling costs, support, and so forth.) 

5. Distinguish places for dams in view of the part outline. (Do I require a wind break to lessen evaporation from my pond? Is it agreeable to get the wind from over the lake into my home/farm?)
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At this point, you can fix pond sites as most PROBABLE/efficiently from the areas that were identified as 'possible' earlier.
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6. Think of edges. Do I need one big pond or two small ones? (Two small ones means more edges). This is critical for aquaculture as all veggie fishes prefer shallow areas near banks, thus increasing productivity. Same is the case for semi-arid, subhumid climates to reduce evaporation.
7. Finalize based on above questions. But now, before you call it 'final final', consider these three points.
8. How often do you get low rainfall/drought in your area historically? And how much area does your catchment need to be to fill your ponds even in low rainfall years?
9. Think of shape and profile of the pond for best stability, ease of construction, production, etc.
10. Re-calculate pond volume based on the selected pond shape and profile
11. identify placement of elements, like vegetation around the pond, windbreak/shade for the pond,
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At this point, you have a pond ON MAP.
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12. Presently consider whether you have to get the swale dug before you dig the pond, or the other route round and so forth with the goal that one doesn't impede the other while moving the soil around. (Effectiveness of the building, which means lessened cost. It a reduce by 20 percent if we do it right than compared to doing it wrong).
13 Think of what to do with the extra soil that might come out of excavation. Keep in mind 'Earth Resources' Module. (Is it clay that I am getting? May be I can build an oven, or make pottery, Gravel? May be I can line my paths!! Stones? May be I can line my spillways, or get into sculpture.)
14. Plan pond management, approach to the pond, piping/etc. Estimate costs.
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FINALLY,
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Iterate through above questions with Zones, Sectors and element analysis for the pond one final time.
Recheck the plan. Then recheck establishment calculations.
Find out prices and costs, bargains and trades.
Then proceed with finding the levels on the land and start constructing!!
Gaia will be safer and better because of your construction!
Recently I dig farm pond for collecting rainwater. If I have bore well it will be using a lot but all people are telling the groundwater is not there on the farm
If you are building a farm pond in sandy soil water will just seep away. To impound it you will need to treat the pond bottom to make it impervious to water. Using gley technique
"Gley"  technique, was developed in the USSR, is "biological plastic.".  "Gley" can be made in the pond in this way:
* Clear the pond bottom of debris, rocks, and all other materials.
* Cover the pond bottom and sides completely with animal manure.
Apply the manure in an even layer.
* Cover the animal manure layer with banana leaves, cut grasses, or
any vegetable matter. Ensure that the majority of the animal manure is covered. 


* Put a layer of soil over the vegetable layer. 



* Tamp the layers down extremely well. 
* Wait for 2 to 3 weeks before filling the pond.

Source for Gley info taken from http://www.permies.com/t/3409/ponds/Gley-technique-sealing-ponds-dams

When rains are likely  to be expected to dig the contour trenches in your agriculture field is at the spacing 0f fifty meters across the slope 0f field  By digging trenches, we can harvest  100%rain water 

Another aspect
If you impound water it would evaporate due to the harsh sun. If water is allowed to percolate through you will not be sure if it is reaching yours or your neighbour water table. Better to erect a shamiana type of wind barrier all around so that at least water evaporation due to the harsh winds is minimal. The floor and sides of the tank need to be applied with a slurry of black soil mixed with any vegetative matter to encourage a slime formation due to anaerobic conditions. This will ensure water is retained without seeping through

"Rainwater Harvesting for Conservation Agriculture with Trees" on YouTube - https://youtu.be/q4AFkCk7uj0
"Ridges & Furrow, Check Dam & Farm Pond" on YouTube - https://youtu.be/MqS45rb498s
"Contour Bunds, Bench Terrace & Compartmental Bunding" on YouTube - https://youtu.be/IuhNoErpQsc

Farm pond expense sheet of a member as on 2016 Apr for reference only not actual cost  this can be used to calculate n plan building your pond
Capacity is 12lakh litres of water can store
Area 36*36
Black sheet cost is 1.5l (this will prevent water evaporation)
Digging cost INR 50k
Fencing INR 20k
Sand transportation cost INR 65k
Total close to INR 3lakhs
Government subsidies INR 75k.Subsidy 25% needs to be applied before we start work 

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